{ Mélanger :: to mix }

In my head, I title this post, “When expectations fail to deliver.”

As I look back on my Petits fours month, I realise what a busy month this has been.  To say that life has been demanding, is a slight understatement.

This month, there has been little time for baking, photographing and writing, almost non-existent time for reading my favourite blogs, and absolutely no time for future baking planning.  This month I am frustrated in how few sweet treats I have shared.

Due to time constraints, I disappointingly was also unable to participate in my favourite baking group, Daring Bakers.  Interestingly, the only other time I was unable to participate, was the month of my wedding and honeymoon last September.  Yes indeed, things have been busy.

I did manage to experiment, however, with a few new recipes this month.  Some successful (French macarons, Nougat and Opéra cake), and some, not so successful (Pâte de fruits).  I conquered my fear of the French meringue version of macarons, managed success in producing a whisper light sponge in my chocolate-coffee explosion, and learned more about pectin than I bargained for.

The goal this month was to explore some new ideas, and find perhaps a handful of ideas for my own Petits fours plate.  It would be unreasonable not to find macarons on my plate.  But what else?  Fortunately, in my round up, I can delve into my archives for other examples to draw on.

So here is my Top 10 list of favourite Petits fours. What would get your vote?

{ Triple Chocolate Macarons } Chocolate is my ultimate weakness in the world.  Thus, in honour of the chocolate macaron, I create a triple chocolate macaron treat.  A chocolate macaron shell, filled with a bittersweet chocolate ganache, and a healthy dusting of cocoa to finish.  { Read more … }

{ Lemon Glazed Madeleines } Madeleines are my favourite sweet petit French treat – behind macarons, of course!  The recipe is courtesy of David Lebovitz.  I followed it to the letter and was easily able to produce some tasty little shelly treats.  The simplicity and elegance of these little cakes is just so charming.  { Read more … }

{ Chocolate Madeleines } If chocolate is my ultimate weakness, and Madeleines high up on my list of favourites, it would be scandalous not to include this variation.  The original recipe is for a Orange Blossom Honey Madeleine, with variations for lemon, pistachio and chocolate to cater for a variety of palates and tastes.  { Read more … }

{ Opéra Cake } The sublime partnership of chocolate and coffee on display.  An elegant almond sponge cake (Joconde sponge), is alternately layered with coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache, then finished with a generous layer of chocolate glaze.  { Read more … }

{ Chocolate Chunk Coconut Macaroons } These little hay-stacked cookies are a simple little biscuit perfect for a sweet indulgence any time of day.  They are simple and quick to make.  The perfect Petits fours to whip up at a moment’s notice.  { Read more … }

{ Pistachio & Cranberry Nougat } This chewy sweet is the ultimate in personalisation.  Choose your favourite nuts and fruit to create your own flavour combination.  Prepare ahead, and cut into mouth sized pieces for a simple, yet individual Petits fours selection.  { Read more … }

{ Mini Chocolate Éclairs } Mini choux pastry treats are a favourite Petits fours option.  A vanilla pastry cream filling and a simple ganache to finish keeps this simple, and quick to prepare. { Read more … }

{ Strawberry & Pistachio Tart } Mini tartlets are a popular Petits fours choice.  This tart will not disappoint.  The pâte sablée pastry has a delicate crisp and crumbly texture.  The sweet, buttery-ness of the pastry pairs well with the slightly sharp and tangy crème fraiche filling.  A hint of summer bursts through with a perfect finish of strawberries on top.  { Read more … }

{ Calisson d’Aix } A tiny diamond shaped sweet, made with ground almonds and candied fruits and finished with white royal icing.  The addition of orange flavoured liqueur to the almond candied fruit mixture, is simply festive. They are very simple to make, and a perfect make-ahead sweet.  { Read more … }

{ Tuiles } Traditionally, tuiles are thin, crisp almond cookies that are gently moulded over a rolling pin or arched form while they are still warm. Once set, their shape resembles the curved French roofing tiles for which they are named.  These little tuiles are the perfect accompaniment to sherbet, ice cream and fruit desserts.   { Read more … }

In my humble opinion, there is very little that beats the combination of chocolate and coffee.  Not a surprise really, given I gravitate towards anything with a sniff of chocolate, and ever since I remember, turn to a morning cup o’ joe to habitually kick start my day.

Flicking through my Fundamentals pastry book, I was immediately glued to the multi-layered Opera Cake.  An elegant almond sponge cake (Joconde sponge), that is alternately layered with coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache, then finished with a generous layer of chocolate glaze.  What could be better?

It all sounded simple enough.  Fortunately, given my pâte de fruits hiccup, it was — though admittedly, I did experience some pre-baking anxiousness with the sponge.  You see, I am extremely heavy handed – not an advantageous trait in a baker’s kitchen – and have shed many a heavy handed tear in the past.

I would not necessarily say I talk to myself when I am alone in the kitchen, but on occasion, I do utter the odd word of caution or encouragement as I tackle baking tasks that require careful attention.

So, with egg whites beaten, and the almond/egg mixture prepared, I ready myself for the ever critical mixing of the sponge.  I carefully fold in my egg whites, repeating the phrase, “light hands, Julia, remember light hands” over and over to myself, to keep me focused.

It seemed to do the trick.

The sponge was light, fluffy, and almost melted in your mouth.  According to my key taste tester, Mr Mélanger, it was my best ever sponge.  The almond flavour is subtle, so given the success, I am keen to experiment more with this recipe for larger sponge cakes, roulades and the like.

I also enlisted the support of Mr Melanger in the cutting of the cake.  Following the diagram in the book to create a diamond shape (common with the Opera Cake, along with the standard square), I somehow ended up with some very odd shaped parallelograms.  A swift turn of the cutting board, and a quick movement of the knife, et voilà, Mr Melanger effortlessly produced a diamond.  (Embarrassing!)

This is not a quick-to-produce petits fours treat.  Although preparation only takes 45 minutes, the time to complete (including chilling) is around 3 hours.  Though absolutely worth the planning ahead.  It will not be the last time I give this a whirl.

{ Opéra cake }

I made a few adaptations from the original recipe from The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts. I opted to include two layers of coffee buttercream in favour of one vanilla and one coffee.  Also, as a time saver, I created both the ganache and glaze from the same base recipe, instead of producing two, slightly more involved, versions.

{ Joconde sponge }

* Ingredients *
175g icing sugar / confectioners’ sugar
40g cake flour
300g egg whites, room temperature
100g icing sugar / confectioners’ sugar
250g ground almonds

* Directions *
Preheat oven to 350F or 180C.  Prepare a 30x20cm (12 x 8 in) sheet pan with butter and parchment paper.  Sift the icing sugar and flour together, add the almond meal.  Set aside.  Make the meringue by placing the egg whites in the mixer and beat on low to form soft peaks.  Add the sugar, raise the speed, and beat until stiff peaks form.  Carefully fold into the flour-almond mixture.  Pour the batter into the sheet pan and smoothing it to an even layer.  Bake for 5-7 minutes.  Remove from the oven, and invert the cake onto a clean wire rack.  Once cool, cut the cake crosswise into four equal pieces.

{ Simple Syrup }

* Ingredients *
125g water
65g granulated sugar

* Directions *
Stir ingredients together in a saucepan and bring to the boil.  Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

{ Coffee Buttercream }

* Ingredients *
100g granulated sugar
60g water
1 large egg + 1 large egg yolk
200g unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons coffee extract

* Directions *
Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan, and heat until sugar dissolves.  Without stirring, cook syrup reaches 124C or 255F.  While the sugar is heating, start beating the egg and egg yolk in a mixer.  Once the sugar is ready, pour the sugar slowly down the side of the bowl to incorporate with the egg.  Increase the speed and continue beating until the mixture has cooled.  Once cooled, begin adding the butter in pieces.  When it has all been incorporated, keep beating until mixture shiny.  At this stage, add coffee extract.  Refrigerate for 10 minutes to slightly harden for easier spreading.

{ Chocolate Ganache & Glaze }

* Ingredients *
400g dark chocolate
2 cup cream
50g unsalted butter, melted

* Directions *
Break up the chocolate into two bowls.  Heat the cream slowly until it boils.  Pour the cream evenly into the two bowls.  Gently mix to melt the chocolate.  To one bowl, also add the melted butter.  This will be the glaze.  Refrigerate for approximately 10-15 minutes to cool enough to spread.

{ Assembly }
Start with one layer of sponge cake.  Brush syrup across the surface of the cake.  Then add half of the coffee buttercream.  Top with another layer of sponge cake.  Chill for 5 minutes.  Remove from the fridge and brush the top layer of sponge with more syrup.  Top with a layer of chocolate ganache.  Top with another layer of sponge.  Chill again for 5 minutes.  Remove from the fridge once more and brush the top layer with more syrup.  Add the remaining coffee buttercream.  Top with the last layer of sponge cake.  Chill for 5 minutes.  Remove from the fridge, and then pour the should-be-easy-to-pour chocolate glaze over the entire cake.  Allow to settle, then return to the fridge for up to 1 hour.  (Can be kept in the fridge for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 1 month.)  When ready to serve, remove from the fridge, dip a sharp knife into hot water, wipe dry, and begin cutting the cake into neat, even shapes, taking care to cut all the way through and leave no ragged edges.  Serve within a few hours.

Sometimes things do not turn out the way you expect.  In those cases, it is always advantageous to have a Plan B up your sleeve.

As part of petits fours month, I was going to feature a berry-licious pâte de fruits.  Bite sized squares of jellied fruit, that pack a big punch.  In consultation with my reference books for the month, and The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts, in particular, I was all ready to puree, boil and set.

But one ingredient was going to trip me up.  Pectin.  The humble pectin, as it turns out, is not so humble.  Simply grabbing jam pectin from my local grocery store, figuring it would be up for the job, was my big mistake.

I was blissfully unaware of the sheer range of pectin available.  Now, after the fact, although not a pectin expert by any means, I have quickly discovered my pectin of choice should have been yellow pectin, or pectin jaune.  There is a special pectin for making jellied product.  (Though no mention of this is in the fundamental pastry book written by the French Culinary Institute.)

If you are interested, and fluent in French, you can see the breakdown of different pectin for a range of common sweets and confectioneries.  Or here to see all the variations between apple and citrus pectin.  To a novice, it was initially daunting to review the detail.

However, pouring over chemical compositions, trying to make head and tail of the once seemingly simple subject of pectin, I was swiftly taken back (almost 20 years!) to my university days when I was a biochemistry student.

Trading my crystal violet stained lab coat for an apron, and the outlook of sandstone buildings for my leafy views from my kitchen, this pectin mistake was turning out to be an adventure.

Good news is, the failed pâte de fruits was not beyond salvage.  In fact, given that jam strength pectin was used, it made for a very thick, berry conserve.  This conserve was my Plan B.  And I must say, with fresh homemade bread hot out of the oven ready to be eaten, a very good Plan B indeed.

{ Plan B  :: Homemade berry conserve with freshly baked French epi bread }

An ever expanding list of recipes for testing and experimentation, seems to be a staple ingredient of most passionate bakers and cooks.  You may recognise the scene.  Cookbooks and magazines piled high (and in every available space), heavily labeled with must-tries.  Online bookmarks overfilling with endless websites and blog pages tagged for future reference.  Folders brimming with an eclectic mix of articles, food stories and notes inspiring a never-ending set of ideas.

Underpinning this endless inspiration, is the constant niggling that there never is enough time to bake (or cook) everything you want.  The quick math tallying up all the recipes on your list quickly reveals a massive disconnect against the available time.

Like many, for me, baking is limited to the weekend – albeit on odd occasion, I do whip up a simple, quick, weeknight dessert, upon Mr Mélanger’s request.  So each month, as I focus on a theme of recipes, ideas or sweet dishes, I essentially prioritise my always-growing-and-I-feel-I-will-never-put-a-dent-in list of must-try recipes.

Not ever being one to ‘wing it’ as such, I am quite systematic in my approach to my monthly themes.  A self-selected set of criteria determines what recipes are in, and what recipes are out.

Does the recipe explore a new style or origin of a dish?
Does the recipe help perfect a new technique?
Does the recipe celebrate a new season or holiday?
Does the recipe share the essence of one of my favourite recipes?
Does the recipe inspire me?

If it ticks all the boxes, it is typically in.  If it only ticks a few boxes, it is on the short list.

You may think this is quite a clinical approach.  Perhaps.  But for me, to put a list of recipes and ideas together, that will push your technique, help you learn something new, or put a new spin on a favourite, is so rewarding.  Particularly when you achieve an outcome at the end of the month.  (Also knowing you are chipping away at your ever growing list, is quite satisfying, too!)

This post is focused on nougat.  It ticked many of the boxes above.  It explored a new style of petits fours, the focus for the month.  It included a technique I wished to perfect. But most importantly, it ticked the last box.

I was inspired by nougat.  Well, a particular nougat recipe.

Last year, I celebrated my wedding day during Rosh Hashanah.  Being very familiar with this Jewish new year celebration, particularly from my time living in Boston, there was no better sign for me that my marriage was off to a great start.

During the lead up to my wedding day, I remember many of my favourite blogs showcasing a sweet selection of desserts in celebration of Rosh Hashanah.  One of my daily, must-read blogs, MyKugelhopf, strayed from the traditional fruit or honey cake.   Kerrin @MyKugelhopf explored a sweet twist indeed on the Jewish new year with fig and pistachio nougat.  C’est parfait! The combination of fruit and honey in this chewy, white confection, rolled together all the key flavours of the holiday in an unexpected way.

Since my wedding day, it has indeed been a sweet, happy new year for me and Mr Mélanger.  To commemorate, here is my own nougat effort.  Not only a perfect, bite-sized petits fours choice, but a wish for more sweet days ahead.

{ Pistachio and cranberry nougat }

Recipe adapted from The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts (by the French Culinary Institute), and Fig and pistachio nougat recipe from MyKugelhopf.

* Ingredients *
45g egg whites, room temperature
200g pistachios
140g cranberries
140g honey
120g light corn syrup or glucose syrup
300g sugar
Cornflour / cornstarch for dusting

* Directions *
Preheat oven to 93C or 200F.  Line a baking tray with parchment paper.  Add the pistachios and gently roast for about 10-15 minutes or until nicely coloured.  While roasting, prepare the base.  Place the egg white in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.  Combine the honey and sugar in a small, heavy bottomed saucepan with the syrup plus 40ml of water.  Begin whipping the egg whites while the honey-sugar mixture comes to a boil.  When the mixture reaches 139C/266F pour it over the whipping egg whites.  When the meringue begins to stiffen, stop the mixer. Remove the whisk attachment and replace with the paddle attachment.  With the speed on low, add the nuts and dried fruit.  Place a silicone liner on a clean, flat work surface.  Dust with cornflour.  Pour the hot nougat out onto the liner.  Dust the top with more cornflour.  Place a second liner over the nougat and roll out to 1.3 cm (1/2 in) thick.  Allow to cool and then cut into 2.5cm (1 in) squares.  Serve or store, airtight, at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Makes 15-25 squares.

It seems most fitting that I kick start my Petits Fours month with French macarons.  Despite making over 25 different flavours of macarons last year <*gulp*, was it that many?>, including my 12 days of holiday macarons, I say there is always room for more.

The efforts of last year revolved around the Italian meringue method, the most stable method of making macarons, and the subject of my “how-to” that I published last year.  I had a few failed attempts with the French meringue method previously, and since have been apprehensive to trial it again.  Until now.

There is nothing new about showcasing a macaron on Mélanger.  But a successful macaron, made with the French meringue method, well, that is new.  So too is a pure chocolate macaron.  Chocolate macarons are apparently the most difficult to make, as I learned at my macaron class at Savour Chocolate and Patisserie school in Melbourne last year.  Due to the fat content of the cocoa, it is easy to release too many of the oils when you mix.  To be honest, I actually did not find the chocolate any more difficult to work with than the plain almond mixture.

Shame on me for taking so long in creating a chocolate macaron, particularly given it is my ultimate weakness in the sweet world.  Thus, in honour of the chocolate macaron, I create a triple chocolate macaron treat.  A chocolate macaron shell, filled with a bittersweet chocolate ganache, and a healthy dusting of cocoa to finish.

I am submitting these macarons to mactweets.  Two of my favourite food bloggers, Deeba & Jamie have created this website as a source of inspiration, support and information on all things macaron.  Well done ladies!

{ Triple Chocolate Macarons } adapted from Savour Chocolate and Patisserie school

* Ingredients *
62g egg whites
3g egg white powder
60g sugar
45g almond meal / ground almonds
25g cocoa
90g icing sugar
Red food colouring
Cocoa for dusting

* Directions *
Process the almond meal and icing sugar together. Sift in the cocoa carefully.  In a mixer, whip the egg whites and egg white powder to soft peaks.  Slowly add the sugar and continue to beat until you reach firm peaks.  At the final changes of whipping the meringue, add the colouring.  Mix the egg whites to the sifted almond mixture and fold into the meringue in four parts.

Pipe macarons on lined baking sheets. Dust lightly with cocoa.  Double up your baking sheets if you do not have professional grade quality.  Let your macarons sit at room temperature for 30-60 minutes. Bake at 140C or 280F for 15-18 minutes.  Fill with ganache or filling of your choice.  Refrigerate to set.

{ Chocolate ganache }

* Ingredients *
120g dark chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream

* Directions *
Heat cream until bubbles form around the edge of the pan.  Pour cream over the chocolate.  Let sit for 2-3 minutes and then stir.  Transfer to the refrigerator to thicken.

Makes 40-50 mini shells, and 20-25 finished mini macarons.

New to making macarons? French macarons :: my ‘how to’ will get you started.

Should every budding amateur patisserie chef have a signature petits fours plate? After a recent injection of inspiration, I enthusiastically say, yes.

Petits fours are dainty biscuits, tiny decorated cakes, and miniature confections traditionally served with dessert or with coffee at the end of the meal. They are also popular at luncheons and high teas, and growing in popularity. These small treats are designed to be light and nibbled in almost one mouthful.

Dry (sec) and fresh (frais), the selection of petits fours seems limited only by imagination. Madeleines, tuiles, friands, macarons, langues de chat, palmiers, truffles are a selection of petits fours sec, and mini choux éclairs, glacé fruits, iced or glazed cakes, tartlets some examples of petits fours frais.

Small, however, does not equal simple. Petits fours are delicate and often fiddly, and demand much patience. According to the French Culinary Institute, it is estimated that one quarter to one third of a pastry kitchen’s time is dedicated to preparing petits fours. That fact alone impressed me enough to investigate them further — and quickly conclude they were more than worthy of a full month of sweet study and hungry exploration on Mélanger.

What prompted all this interest initially? My inspiration was delivered on a white plate at Aria Brisbane at the end of the meal.

{ Images ::  Rich Valrhona chocolate délice with chocolate sorbet – Aria’s signature chocolate dessert – selection of truffles and Turkish delight petits fours @ Aria Brisbane }

After happily grazing on an amuse bouche of soy marinated tuna with daikon cucumber and truffle vinaigrette, then a starter of twice cooked Bangalow sweet pork belly with apple puree and black pudding, a main course of roasted lamb rack with cumin, labna and egg plant, and a dessert of rich Valrhona chocolate délice with chocolate sorbet (Aria’s signature chocolate dessert), the table was presented with coffee and petits fours – a selection of truffles and Turkish delight.

With satisfied, full bellies around the entire table, it did not take long for hands to reach, not so shyly, into the small treats.

{ Images :: Matt Preston’s book, Cravat-a-licious and Julia & Matt Preston @ book launch at Aria Brisbane }

The entire restaurant was there to celebrate the launch of Matt Preston’s book, Cravat-a-licious. Matt Preston’s larger than life personality left an indelible mark, but for me, so did the final course.

So this month, I will investigate a range of my own petits fours. I hope you enjoy the small taste I will showcase. Perhaps it will include a new favourite for you, too?

Do you already have a repertoire of miniature delights that you fall back on time and time again? Please share!

A small handful of cookbooks in my collection have dedicated sections on petits fours. I will be heavily referencing the following this month:

The Roux Brothers on Patisserie, Michel and Albert Roux
Indulge, Claire Clark
The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts, The French Culinary Institute
Ripailles, Stéphane Reynaud
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2, Simone Beck & Julia Child

Thank you to Vogue Entertaining and Travel and News Magazine for my invitation to join the book launch at Aria Brisbane – and a big thank you for not being mortified at the table (and in fact being fully encouraging!) as I whipped out my camera to take snaps of Matt Preston and the dishes throughout the meal.