Sun 21 Feb 2010
{ Pâte de fruits :: and ‘Plan B’ }
Posted by Julia Tuomainen under Baking, Bread, Sweets & Confectionery
[25] Comments
Sometimes things do not turn out the way you expect. In those cases, it is always advantageous to have a Plan B up your sleeve.
As part of petits fours month, I was going to feature a berry-licious pâte de fruits. Bite sized squares of jellied fruit, that pack a big punch. In consultation with my reference books for the month, and The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts, in particular, I was all ready to puree, boil and set.
But one ingredient was going to trip me up. Pectin. The humble pectin, as it turns out, is not so humble. Simply grabbing jam pectin from my local grocery store, figuring it would be up for the job, was my big mistake.
I was blissfully unaware of the sheer range of pectin available. Now, after the fact, although not a pectin expert by any means, I have quickly discovered my pectin of choice should have been yellow pectin, or pectin jaune. There is a special pectin for making jellied product. (Though no mention of this is in the fundamental pastry book written by the French Culinary Institute.)
If you are interested, and fluent in French, you can see the breakdown of different pectin for a range of common sweets and confectioneries. Or here to see all the variations between apple and citrus pectin. To a novice, it was initially daunting to review the detail.
However, pouring over chemical compositions, trying to make head and tail of the once seemingly simple subject of pectin, I was swiftly taken back (almost 20 years!) to my university days when I was a biochemistry student.
Trading my crystal violet stained lab coat for an apron, and the outlook of sandstone buildings for my leafy views from my kitchen, this pectin mistake was turning out to be an adventure.
Good news is, the failed pâte de fruits was not beyond salvage. In fact, given that jam strength pectin was used, it made for a very thick, berry conserve. This conserve was my Plan B. And I must say, with fresh homemade bread hot out of the oven ready to be eaten, a very good Plan B indeed.

{ Plan B :: Homemade berry conserve with freshly baked French epi bread }





Love it ! No baking adventure is without a new experience, a lesson to be learned – and ooh a delicious result, sometimes despite appearances !
Bravo for the gorgeous baguette en épis, the bread looks fantastic, perfect in color and texture. And with that fabulous jam, talk about a wonderful plan B after all.
Thank you for sharing and teaching us a lesson or two as well !
About pectin and pâte de fruit, but even more, about having the right attitude and turning a potential failure into a different success !
Wow, Julia! I must say I had no idea at all that there are various types of pectin, nor that one has to be careful when selecting just the right one to make jellied confections. I applaud your luscious use of Plan B! And, I love your epi bread. It turned out so nicely. I always learn something valuable from your posts!
Jane
I didn’t know that there were different types of pectin…
Plan b turned out great!
Cheers,
Rosa
I like a girl who thinks on her feet! Your conserve looks scrumptious.
What a coincidence! I earmarked strawberry jubes as well for this weekend. Didn’t realize that there were so many choices of pectin available!
In any case, maybe I should get your recipe for the conserve instead – it looks delicious!
Fascinating information about different pectins. I am baking hamantaschen for Purim and pectin has actually been on my mind because regular supermarket jam has the wrong kind to be a good filling for this cookie. You really need to use ovenproof bakery jam, which is better because it is made with a special pectin that helps it withstand oven heat and not boil over.
Susan (of Sticky Gooey Creamy Chewy) had good luck making pate de fruits with Jenni’s recipe, which is based on Boiron purees . . . (http://onlinepastrychef.wordpress.com/2009/01/20/pastry-gems-pate-de-fruits/)
Susan used Sure Jell powdered pectin.
I deduce from Jenni’s post that the trick isn’t just in the pectin, but in the right amount of pectin for the particular fruit puree. Jenni says she has the professional “cheat sheet.”
Oh no! I wanted to try making pate de fruits as well but like you, have a problem with this thing called pectin.. I have alas found a recipe online for pate de fruit which doesn’t call for pectin. I haven’t tried it yet but I thought I’d share it with you
http://marriedwithdinner.com/2008/07/28/eating-fruit-paste/
I never knew there were different pectins either, but now I do so thank you! It’s definitely something I want to try making at some point.
Your Plan B still looks amazing though, and it looks like it’s at least 70% fruit (if not more). Craving for some berry conserve now!
Hehhe.. I so know that experience. Exact same thing happened to me.. And like you said, it became blueberry jelly rather than pate
)
Btw, Helen of tartellete, had mentioned a brand that she uses for makng pate. And, I get it easily here.. let me know if you want some.. will bring it along..
Looks delicious. You can do the pate next time when you have the other kind of pectin. Things rarely turn out how I expect in my kitchen!
Salvageable means no wastage of ingredients, effort and time =) Looks beautiful!
Bravo on the plan B Julia. Your berry conserve looks very delightful. This situation is exactly what happened to me, I tried to make an apple version last year, just grabbed jamsetta assuming it would work and ended up with lumps of apple jam! Thanks for all the pectin info, might brave it again
Ahh what a shame but I guess you live and learn! And when the result is that very delectable jam, it’s not so bad after all!
Good save! Looks really delicious too. Now, you’d think they’d put the appropriate use on the label, wouldn’t you… sigh.
I always enjoy reading your site!I’ve left you an award at my blog, drop by to pick it up!
That would confuse the heck out of me with all those different types of pectin! At least you managed to make some very tasty jam instead
I love when you can save a failed recipe!
It may not be pate de fruits, but it is an amazing and delicious looking jam – yum!
You’ve mastered les macarons, I’m sure you’ll be the master of the Pectin encyclopaedia in no time
I plan to give jam-making a try this summer, so those links you shared will be incredibly useful – thank you!
Julia, you are so brave. Plan B looks so delicious. As Kerrin says – It definitely is about having the right attitude. I have nothing but admiration for you.
I have been collecting information on paté de fruit for the last 6 months with the intention of one day making Ispahan macarons with lychee paté de fruit. Needless to say I am a coward and haven’t had the courage to do so (I don’t even have a plan A).
You most likely have this information but just in case you don’t – The Melbourne Food Ingredient Depot will have the pectin you require.
http://www.mfcd.net/store/categories.asp?cID=71
They do mail order, but if you would like me to get some for you, I am going over to them in the near future and am happy to send it up to you. Just say the word. (I found out about them from Savour School)
And have a look at – http://www.auiswiss.com/pdf/FruitPureeChart_%20081403_FINAL.pdf – for a listing of weights of pectin required for various fruits. You would have to work out percentages for the amount of fruit you wanted to use.
plan b looks like a huge success!! i love homemade jam and always make mine without any pectin (one less step is always a good thing for me)!
Julia, so interesting about the different pectins…in spite of the failure, the plan B turned out great
Great way of making something that didn’t work WORK!
They definitely should have included a note about the pectin. It looks like you made a stunning and delicious save. Thanks for the info.
Don’t you just love when things turn out?
Corry – thank you so much! I am actually hoping to get to Melbourne in April so will have to check out MFID. But thank you so much for the offer! I did see their flyer for that place when at Savour. That chart as well is so helpful. Fingers crossed then for my next pectin adventure!