
I can easily lose track of time immersed in my cook books. Particularly when I am reading about the history or tradition of food. Often I purchase a cook book explicitly to learn more about origin of food. Exploring more than just the technicalities of how a bread, cake or dessert is created, gives me an opportunity to develop a greater appreciation of a region or culture, along with (of course), a dish. I find that deeply satisfying.
Far Breton aux pruneaux and crepes are two specialities from the Brittany region in France. The Kouign Amann (“Butter Cake”) is another. It is a very traditional Breton cake made of yeasted bread dough enriched with butter and sugar. The butter and sugar is folded into the dough, in a not too dissimilar fashion to making puff pastry or croissants. This technique produces a layered, buttery crumb to the finished cake. To finish, a healthy dose of sugar is sprinkled on top to create a deliciously hard caramel finish. The end result is a mouth-watering crunchy on the outside, and soft in the centre cake.
Apparently the Kouign Amann resulted from a failed bread dough. A baker from Breton devised the solution to turn the dough into a cake by adding (copious quantities of!) sugar and butter. Thus, the “Butter Cake” was born. I am not sure how accurate this is, but I do know one thing is true. This cake is addictive. Fresh from the oven, it is hard to contain yourself to enjoying simply one slice.
But do not just take my word for it.
There are many Kouign Amann devotees around the world. David Lebovitz persisted tirelessly in the pursit of the perfect butter cake. Kerrin from MyKugelhopf shares her first face-to-face at Pierre Hermé’s boutique in Paris’ Saint Germain des Prés (distracting her from his signature macarons, no less!), and showcases some delicious variations of this specialty. Dorie Greenspan talks about the marvel of the Kouign Amann during a recent trip to France, that urged her to return post-sampling to compliment the chef.
Are you convinced to bake this now?

{ Wholemeal Kouign Amann } recipe adapted by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, from the book, “Home Baking”
The authors suggested a twist on the traditional cake by substituting part wholemeal flour for white flour. The combination of the malty wheatiness complements the caramel and butter finish well.
* Ingredients *
1 cup lukewarm water (about 40C/105F)
¼ teaspoon active dry yeast
1 cup wholemeal / wholewheat flour
1 – 1 1/4 cup plain / all purpose flour
¾ teaspoons salt
125g / 1 stick ice-cold salted butter
¾ cup caster sugar
2 tablespoons salted butter melted, spike with a healthy pinch of fleur de sel (or any good quality salt)
* Directions *
Place the water in a bowl, add the yeast and stir to dissolve well. Stir in 1 cup of wholemeal flour to make a smooth batter. Let stand, covered with plastic wrap for an hour or two. Sprinkle on the salt and stir in. Stir in 1 cup of plain flour, then slowly add little by little of the remaining ½ cup of plain flour to bring the dough together enough to turn out to a lightly floured surface. Knead until very smooth and firm but not dry, about 5 minutes. Incorporate flour only as you have to. Place the dough on a floured spot on the counter, cover well with plastic and let stand for about 1 ½ to 2 hours.
On a lightly floured surface, flatten the dough out to a rectangle at least 30 cm long x 15 cm wide (12 inches x 6 inches). Thinly slice the butter and divide it into 3 equal portions. Place 1 portion, in pieces, over half to two-thirds of the length of dough. Sprinkle with about ¼ cup of the sugar. Fold a third of the dough into the centre over the butter, and then fold the other flap over that, like folding a letter. Flatten the dough out again into a rectangle and repat with butter and sugar. Flatten once more, and then repeat with butter only. The dough will feel soft and the butter may be breaking through a little. Don’t worry.
Lightly grease a 23cm/9 inch spring form tin and place on a baking sheet. Place the dough in the tin and flatten it once more, pressing it in the sides with your fingertips to form a round. Cut 6 to 7 cuts right through the dough, each about 5 cm long, in a starburst pattern radiating out from near the centre. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for about 1 hour. Meanwhile, place a rack in the lower third of the oven and pre-heat to 220C/430F. Just before baking, brush the melted butter over the cake and sprinkle with the last of the sugar.
Bake for 20-25 minutes until very golden brown. Both the top and bottom of the cake will have a caramelised surface. Let cool for at least 30 minutes, and serve cut into wedges.
{ Tips }
• This is meant to be a sticky dough, so be careful not to add too much unnecessary flour.
• Use the best salted butter you can find. To top the cake, I added in a ½ teaspoon of fleur de sel to my melted butter for a salty boost!
• If you somehow manage not to eat the entire cake fresh out of the oven (remember, it is addictive!), it reheats nicely on 160C/320F to re-create that “crunchy on the outside, soft in the centre” combination.