{ Mélanger :: to mix }

The idea of having an ulterior motive sounds so clandestine.  So underhanded.  But I must admit, my research into Finnish desserts this month was just that.

Naturally, I am fascinated in Mr Melanger’s Finnish ancestry.  Not only because his makeup and personality is very much predisposed by that background, but it impacts me directly, too.  Well, when I use his last name it does at least.  It is always an amusing scenario where I am faced by a quizzical stare and an immediate request of, “how do you spell that?”

Who you are is shaped by so many influences.  For me, it is important to appreciate, celebrate and understand those very persuasions.

Growing up a first generation Australian, alongside parents and a sister that migrated from England, afforded me a reasonably unique identity.  Not only the extensive British influence of my immediate and past family ties, but the custom and tradition of my new country of birth.  This blend has made me who I am.

I want to follow the role that my parents played in sharing their heritage with me.  I want to play an active role in sharing everything relevant with baby Mélanger … who is on the way!

Baby Mélanger, with their inherent Finnglish connections, will learn about their lineage, no question.  Finland.  England.  And naturally, Australia, of course.

In preparation of the big (or hopefully little) arrival of baby Mélanger in September, I will continue to research, learn and experiment with my baking and cooking.

In the meantime, here is a roundup of the Finnish desserts created this month, plus some other delicious Finnish treats that I am sure will now become even more popular in the Mélanger soon-to-be-expanded home.

{ Mustikkapiirakka :: Blueberry Tart } This simple, rustic style tart is a snap to make and a treat to share.  The blueberries piled high look as inviting as they are delicious.  The simplicity of the tart is the winning secret.  Fresh berries sweetened ever so slightly with a sprinkling of sugar, and topped on an easy to prepare, flaky pastry.  Perfect for any time of year.  { Read more here … }

{ Sekahedelmäkeitto :: Mixed fruit soup } The warm, aromatic aroma of the cinnamon is so alluring and while you are heating the sugary syrup.  Your whole kitchen will permeate with this sweet-spicy smell.  The gentle cooking produces fruit that is both sweet and deliciously soft.  It is equally tasty by itself, or made even more special by the addition of cream, or served alongside creamed rice.  { Read more here … }

{ Åland Pancake } If you enjoy the baked custardy taste of the Far Breton, the quintessential flan from Brittany, you will love the Åland Pancake.  It is creamy, dense and very smooth  – and just perfect with a dollop of lingonberry jam, a staple in this region of the world.  { Read more here … }

{ Rahkatorttu :: Karelian Cheese Torte } Vary the recipe as your tastes please.  Include raisins or fruit into the filling.  Use cream or butter to make the cheese even more rich.  Vary the cheese with cream cheese or cottage cheese if you cannot find quark.  Either way, it will be easy, simple yet flavourful – particularly when served with a healthy dollop of cloudberry jam!   { Read more here … }

{ Omenapiirakka :: Finnish Apple Pie } You need to try this pie.  The best part for me was how easy the pastry was to make.  And even better than that, how delicious it was.  I actually made the pastry a day ahead and was able to quickly roll out, top with apple and then bake in less than 45 minutes.  To keep it simple, I served with a light dusting of icing sugar and some rich vanilla ice cream to complement the gooey caramelised apple centre of the pie.  { Read more here … }

{ Karjalanpiirakat :: Karelian Rice Pasties } The pastry was quite easy to make.  It literally mixed together by hand in less than 5 minutes.  The filling is the most time consuming part taking an hour to slowly simmer.  But well worth the time.  Try with a boiled eggs topping, for the most perfect of snacks.   { Read more here … }

{ Hannatädinkakut :: Aunt Hanna’s Cookies } These simple and quick cookies are a Finnish favourite at holiday time.  They are apparently very popular, and according to Beatrice Ojakangas, can be found in supermarkets across Finland all year round.  One taste, and I was a big fan.  They are light and buttery but not too rich.  The little bite size makes them perfect for a little treat during the day.  I also think they make lovely homemade gifts, too!  { Read more here … }

{ Cardamom macarons with coffee cream} My tribute to Finland.  The Finns are reported to be the largest coffee drinkers in the world.  Cardamom is a very common spice used in Finnish (and Scandinavian) baking.  I love the flavours of both so put together this combination.  And let me just say, I am in macaron heaven.  { Read more here … }

{ Pulla :: Finnish cardamom bread } Pulla was the first item I baked for my (now) husband.  After much searching for the perfect recipe, I took the plunge with my Beatrice Ojakangas baking bible.  When I was told the bread tasted, “just like my mummo used to make”, I knew I had chosen well.   { Read more here … }

{ Mustikkapiiraat :: Blueberry filled buns } These buns are a snap to make and smell wonderful coming out of the oven.  You may clap your hands in delight (as I did) when seeing the gooey berry drizzle running down the side of a bun or two.  It will be hard to wait for them to cool slightly so you can devour them.  { Read more here … }

With a busy, non-stop weekend chock full of errands, major furniture assembly/removal/moving, tidying and organising, there was nothing more ideal than a sweet pick-me-up to restore those rapidly depleted energy stores.

Enter the Mustikkapiirakka, or Finnish Blueberry Tart.

With my mother as a willing kitchen participant (and the most organised helper over the weekend!), I prepared this moreish tart for a delicious morning tea treat for all to share.

Can you imagine anything more perfect to replenish a tired body?

{ Mustikkapiirakka :: Blueberry Tart }

I have seen a few different approaches to the pastry.  Some recipes included cream (a deliciously light, melt-in-your-mouth pastry I am familiar with in Finnish baking), some recipes included sour cream, and others simply a basic flour, sugar, butter combination.

I elected to celebrate the simple style of the tart, but with my own favourite flaky pastry recipe.  For the filling, I loaded up on blueberries and kept the flavour unadulterated with the addition of only sugar for extra sweetness and potato flour to help absorb excess juices from the berries.  This version is my variation on the Mustikkapiirakka.

If you know of the Mustikkapiirakka, I would love to hear about the technique you use.

* Ingredients *
Dough
2 cups all purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
250g / 2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and frozen
1/3 cup iced water
Filling
600g / 20oz blueberries
2 tablespoons potato flour
2/3 cup sugar

* Directions *
For the dough, mix the flour, sugar and salt in a food processor to combine.  Add the butter and pulse gently to roughly incorporate into the flour mixture.  Do not over mix – it is fine to have some butter chunks showing.  Again pulsing the processor, slowly add in the iced water until the dough starts to come together.  Once again, do not over mix.  Tip the dough out onto a floured board and gently knead for a few seconds to bring together.  Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.  When you are ready to bake the tarts, remove the pastry from the refrigerator, cut into two even pieces and allow to soften slightly.  In the meantime, prepare the blueberry mixture.  Combine the blueberries, potato flour and sugar in a bowl.  Set aside.  To prepare the pastry, roll out each piece into a 30 cm / 12 in circle.  Trim to neaten edges using a dinner plate as a guide if necessary.  Line two baking sheets with baking paper.  Place a piece of prepared pastry on each.  Top each with one half of the prepared mixture.  Chill the prepared tarts for 30 minutes.  Preheat the oven to 180C/350F.  Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes 2 tarts

Do you enjoy research?  I find the process fascinating – particularly when you have limited, to zero!, established understanding on a subject.

With an end goal in mind, you firstly try to read as broadly as you can to understand the subject.  You file little nuggets of detail away as you read.  Those details seem random at first, but as you continue you start to connect the dots.  Then, with again no (or limited!) knowledge on the subject, you try to assess the usefulness of the information you have found.

I typically find myself “looping” here quite a bit (more reading and then more assessing), mostly when I am unsatisfied with what I have dug up.  There is some instant elimination of information or enthusiastic ticking for future use along the way.

This has essentially been the process for me to delve into ‘Finnish dessert’ month.

Starting from a very limited knowledge base, I attempted to come up with an authentic list of Finnish desserts.  This was particularly challenging given Finnish cuisine is not the most popular globally.  Finding references in English were few and fair in between – compared with more popular cuisines such as French, Italian and Spanish.

But determination is a wonderful thing.  And even though the research process took longer than originally anticipated, I managed to create a short list of ideas.

The first dessert that made the list was the Karelian Cheese Torte, or more commonly known in Finnish as Rahkatorttu.

I am familiar with the Karelian area of Finland.  Mr Melanger’s father grew up in the city of Lappeenranta, which is situated in South Karelia between the southern banks of Saimmaa lake and the border with Russia.

In the food stakes, the Karelian Rice Pastry was one of first Finnish items I baked trying to familiarise myself with the unique food of this area.  This Karelian Cheese Torte is the second – and given the significance of the area, hence being first on the list for the month!

{ Rahkatorttu :: Karelian Cheese Torte }

I came across quite a number of recipes in my research.  Some included raisins, some were baked with fruit.  Some fillings incorporated cream or butter.  Some fillings were focused heavily just on the cheese.  The cheese also varied.  Some used cream cheese, some cottage cheese, some curd/quark.  But knowing the word “rahka” in Finnish is “quark”, I figured that would be the best way to go.  (Also, it was about time I finally baked with quark after all the inspiration I have received from Deeba at Passionate about Baking!)

This version is my variation on the Rahkatorttu.  Plain, simple yet flavourful – particularly when served with a healthy dollop of cloudberry jam!

If you know of the Rahkatorttu, I would love to hear about the technique you use.

* Ingredients *
Pastry
2 cups of plain all purpose flour
1 teaspoon of baking powder
1/4 cup of caster sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) of butter, extra cold and cut into small cubes
1 extra large egg
Filling
380g Quark
1/4 cup sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 extra large eggs

* Directions *
Butter a 20cm (8 inch) springform tin.  Set aside.  Preheat the oven to 180C (350F).  In a food processor quickly mix the flour, baking powder and sugar together.  Add the butter and pulse until you achieve the consistency of chunky breadcrumbs.  Finally, add the egg to bind.  The pastry should be fairly crumbly.  Gently pat the pastry into the prepared tin distributing evenly in sections.  Set the pastry aside and prepare the filling.  In a large bowl, whisk together the quark and sugar until the sugar is dissolved.  Add the lemon zest, lemon juice and eggs and whisk until well combined.  Pour the filling into the pastry and bake for 40-50 minutes.  After 40 minutes start checking.  You want the centre to be just set and firm-ish to the touch.  Cool, and serve with cloudberry jam, or any fruit of choice.

This month, I injected a few traditional savoury ingredients into typical sweet dishes.  As a conservative baker, I challenged myself to take some classic recipes and twist them to introduce some unusual flavour combinations — I was curious how far I would experiment with solid, timeless dishes.

Tried and true recipes such as apple pie, chocolate mousse, shortbread, and crème brûlée were given a flavour make-over.  Enter rosemary, fennel, Chinese five spice, and coriander that featured in the line up this month.

Want more savoury flavours?  How about basil, thyme, pepper and salt?  These usually savoury ingredients were the focus of a citrus tart, chocolate brownie, gingerbread cookie, and caramel chocolate cupcake showcased previously on Mélanger.

Here is the round up for the month. I hope you enjoyed your own experiments in the baking kitchen!

{ Coriander spiced apple pie } Although cinnamon and apple go hand in hand, a temporary substitution made for a surprisingly delicious flavor combination.  The nutty, spicy and rather citrusy flavour of ground coriander pairs unpredictably well with apple in these modest little pies.  { read more here … }

{ Chinese five spice chocolate mousse } For me, there is nothing like chocolate to soothe an unsettled soul.  In this case, a Chinese five spice chocolate mousse.  Inspired by a Belinda Jeffery rich chocolate cake showcasing the same spice these little aromatic pots were a delicious spin on the usual.  { read more here … }

{ Fennel & olive oil shortbread } The rich, sandy texture of the shortbread is preserved despite the variations.  The fennel flavour is prominent as soon as you take a bite.  The olive oil flavour comes through at the end.  It is subtle, but there.  This shortbread sure does lend itself well to different flavours. { read more here … }

{ Rosemary & orange crème brûlée } Rosemary was infused into the cream before making the basic custard for the brûlée.  The zest of one orange was also folded into the final mixture.  The injection of a less traditionally sweet flavour balanced the incredibly rich brûlée.  The end result was a typical creamy brûlée, with subtle suggestions of pine and some zing.  { read more here … }

{ Lime-Basil Tart } The traditional citrus tart is given a twist with the addition of fresh basil.  The fragrance from the basil is subtle but brings out the zesty overtones of the limes.  These flavours pair especially well with a basic sweet tart pastry.  { read more here … }

{ Thyme Brownie } This is the ultimate brownie recipe.  The end result is chewy with the right about of ‘bite’.  The slight variation with the thyme was subtle.  It produced a slightly earthy aroma to the rich, chocolately flavor of the brownie.  If you are a fan of a brownie that is not too cakey, and not too fudgey, this is a must try for you.  { read more here … }

{ Pfeffernussen } Pfeffernussen means ‘pepper nut’ in German.  This cookie features pepper (but no nuts!), and a range of spices such as cinnamon, all spice, nutmeg and cloves.  The light sugary coating of the cookie complements the peppery flavour deliciously. They are incredibly airy and light, and have a beautiful peppery flavour.   { read more here … }

{ Chocolate Salted Caramel Cupcakes } The salted caramel harmoniously melds with the rich chocolate cake and dark chocolate frosting.  Lightly sprinkled to finish, the grey flakes look misleadingly innocent.  When you savour the taste, the flavour faintly lingers urging you to immediately go back for more.  { read more here … }

It is a perfectly normal reflex.  When baking a homemade apple pie, you reach for cinnamon.  No?  I think it is safe to say that cinnamon is intrinsically connected with the humble apple pie.  So it was a hard decision to temporarily disregard this natural food pairing for my final item during savoury sweets month.

The nutty, spicy and rather citrusy flavour of ground coriander was my spice of choice instead when putting together these modest little pies.

Apple holds up very well to the addition of flavours, and I must (surprisingly!) admit it took to this little substitution with much enthusiasm.  The end result was a lovely combination of tart apple, a punch of spice with subtle citrus overtones to round out the flavour.

It would be hard for me to walk by cinnamon once more in any future apple pie efforts, but I enjoyed the experiment.

{ Coriander spiced apple pies } Original recipe by Julia @ Mélanger

If you do not overwork the pastry, you will be rewarded with a perfect flaky, buttery pastry that melts in your mouth.

* Ingredients *
Dough
2 cups all purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
250g / 2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and frozen
1/3 cup iced water
Filling
800g / 28oz canned baking apple
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground coriander
Finish
Milk, to brush pastry
Sugar, to sprinkle on pastry

* Directions *
For the dough, mix the flour, sugar and salt in a food processor to combine.  Add the butter and pulse gently to roughly incorporate into the flour mixture.  Do not over mix – it is fine to have some butter chunks showing.  Again pulsing the processor, slowly add in the iced water until the dough starts to come together.  Once again, do not over mix.  Tip the dough out onto a floured board and gently knead for a few seconds to bring together.  Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.  In the meantime, prepare the apple mixture.  Combine the canned apple, flour and spice in a bowl.  Set aside.  To prepare the pastry, remove from the refrigerator and cut into eight even pieces.  Roll out each piece larger than your individual pastry cases.  Line the base of each pastry case with the prepared dough so there is a little overhang.  Top each with one quarter of the prepared mixture.  Brush around the edges of the pastry with milk.  Then layer the pies with a final circle of pastry.  Crimp the edges of each pastry layer together.  Chill the prepared pies for 30 minutes.  Preheat the oven to 180C/350F.  Place pies on baking tray and brush with more milk and sprinkled sugar.  Cut vents in the centre of the pies and bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes 4 individual pies

A new dessert.  A layered dessert.  A most perfect Daring Baker’s Challenge.  Orange Tian.

This dessert is layered with a multitude of different textures and flavours.  Pâte sablée.  Orange marmalade.  Orange flavoured whipped cream.  Caramel infused orange segments.  Caramel orange sauce.

Traditionally, you build the dessert upside down and then unmould the dessert so that the bottom layer (the orange segments) becomes the top layer.

The dish provided great flexibility in creating the components in stages.  I deviated slightly from the instructions by creating a tart-like tian.  Instead of assembling the components upside-down with the top layer first, I stacked each layer starting with a shallow lipped pastry shell.

I selected my favourite pâte sablée recipe as the base of this dessert (recipe from Strawberry and Pistachio Tarts).  This nutty pistachio pastry holds up well to fruit flavours, in particular the bold, citrus orange.

As a bonus to this challenge, I am proud to now have a couple of homemade jars on hand.  It will not last long, I am sure!

Thank you Jennifer for a great selection.

The 2010 March Daring Baker’s challenge was hosted by Jennifer of Chocolate Shavings. She chose Orange Tian as the challenge for this month, a dessert based on a recipe from Alain Ducasse’s Cooking School in Paris.

{ Orange Tian } Daring Baker’s Challenge by Jennifer of Chocolate Shavings

For the Pâte sablée:

Ingredients U.S. Imperial Metric Instructions for Ingredients
2 medium-sized egg yolks at room temperature
granulated sugar 6 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon; 2.8 oz; 80 grams
vanilla extract ½ teaspoon
Unsalted butter ¼ cup + 3 tablespoons; 3.5 oz; 100 grams ice cold, cubed
Salt 1/3 teaspoon; 2 grams
All-purpose flour 1.5 cup + 2 tablespoons; 7 oz; 200 grams
baking powder 1 teaspoon ; 4 grams

Directions:
Put the flour, baking powder, ice cold cubed butter and salt in a food processor fitted with a steel blade.

In a separate bowl, add the eggs yolks, vanilla extract and sugar and beat with a whisk until the mixture is pale. Pour the egg mixture in the food processor.

Process until the dough just comes together. If you find that the dough is still a little too crumbly to come together, add a couple drops of water and process again to form a homogenous ball of dough. Form into a disc, cover with plastic wrap and leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Preheat your oven to 350 degree Fahrenheit.

Roll out the dough onto a lightly floured surface until you obtain a ¼ inch thick circle.

Using your cookie cutter, cut out circles of dough and place on a parchment (or silicone) lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes or until the circles of dough are just golden.

For the Marmalade:

Ingredients U.S. Imperial Metric Instructions for Ingredients
Freshly pressed orange juice ¼ cup + 3 tablespoons; 3.5 oz; 100 grams
1 large orange used to make orange slices
cold water to cook the orange slices
pectin 5 grams
granulated sugar: use the same weight as the weight of orange slices once they are cooked

Finely slice the orange. Place the orange slices in a medium-sized pot filled with cold water. Simmer for about 10 minutes, discard the water, re-fill with cold water and blanch the oranges for another 10 minutes.

Blanch the orange slices 3 times. This process removes the bitterness from the orange peel, so it is essential to use a new batch of cold water every time when you blanch the slices.

Once blanched 3 times, drain the slices and let them cool.

Once they are cool enough to handle, finely mince them (using a knife or a food processor).

Weigh the slices and use the same amount of granulated sugar . If you don’t have a scale, you can place the slices in a cup measurer and use the same amount of sugar.

In a pot over medium heat, add the minced orange slices, the sugar you just weighed, the orange juice and the pectin. Cook until the mixture reaches a jam consistency (10-15 minutes).

Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and put in the fridge.

For the Orange Segments:

For this step you will need 8 oranges.

Cut the oranges into segments over a shallow bowl and make sure to keep the juice. Add the segments to the bowl with the juice.

For the Caramel:

Ingredients U.S. Metric Imperial Instructions for Ingredients
granulated sugar 1 cup; 7 oz; 200 grams
orange juice 1.5 cups + 2 tablespoons; 14 oz; 400 grams

Place the sugar in a pan on medium heat and begin heating it.

Once the sugar starts to bubble and foam, slowly add the orange juice. As soon as the mixture starts boiling, remove from the heat and pour half of the mixture over the orange segments.

Reserve the other half of the caramel mixture in a small bowl — you will use this later to spoon over the finished dessert. When the dessert is assembled and setting in the freezer, heat the kept caramel sauce in a small saucepan over low heat until it thickens and just coats the back of a spoon (about 10 minutes). You can then spoon it over the orange tians.

[Tip: Be very careful when making the caramel — if you have never made caramel before, I would suggest making this step while you don’t have to worry about anything else. Bubbling sugar is extremely, extremely hot, so make sure you have a bowl of ice cold water in the kitchen in case anyone gets burnt!]

For the Whipped Cream:

Ingredients U.S. Metric Imperial Instructions for Ingredients
heavy whipping cream 1 cup; 7 oz; 200 grams
3 tablespoons of hot water
1 tsp Gelatine
1 tablespoon of confectioner’s sugar
orange marmalade (see recipe above) 1 tablespoon

In a small bowl, add the gelatine and hot water, stirring well until the gelatine dissolves. Let the gelatine cool to room temperature while you make the whipped cream. Combine the cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Whip the cream using a hand mixer on low speed until the cream starts to thicken for about one minute. Add the confectioner sugar. Increase the speed to medium-high. Whip the cream until the beaters leave visible (but not lasting) trails in the cream, then add the cooled gelatine slowly while beating continuously. Continue whipping until the cream is light and fluffy and forms soft peaks. Transfer the whipped cream to a bowl and fold in the orange marmalade.
[Tip: Use an ice cold bowl to make the whipped cream in. You can do this by putting your mixing bowl, cream and beater in the fridge for 20 minutes prior to whipping the cream.]

Assembling the Dessert:

Make sure you have some room in your freezer. Ideally, you should be able to fit a small baking sheet or tray of desserts to set in the freezer.

Line a small tray or baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone sheet. Lay out 6 cookie cutters onto the parchment paper/silicone.

Drain the orange segments on a kitchen towel.

Have the marmalade, whipped cream and baked circles of dough ready to use.

Arrange the orange segments at the bottom of each cookie cutter. Make sure the segments all touch either and that there are no gaps. Make sure they fit snuggly and look pretty as they will end up being the top of the dessert. Arrange them as you would sliced apples when making an apple tart.

Once you have neatly arranged one layer of orange segments at the bottom of each cookie cutter, add a couple spoonfuls of whipped cream and gently spread it so that it fills the cookie cutter in an even layer. Leave about 1/4 inch at the top so there is room for dough circle.

Using a butter knife or small spoon, spread a small even layer of orange marmalade on each circle of dough.

Carefully place a circle of dough over each ring (the side of dough covered in marmalade should be the side touching the whipping cream). Gently press on the circle of dough to make sure the dessert is compact.

Place the desserts to set in the freezer to set for 10 minutes.

Using a small knife, gently go around the edges of the cookie cutter to make sure the dessert will be easy to unmold. Gently place your serving plate on top of a dessert (on top of the circle of dough) and turn the plate over. Gently remove the cookie cutter, add a spoonful of caramel sauce and serve immediately.

In my head, I title this post, “When expectations fail to deliver.”

As I look back on my Petits fours month, I realise what a busy month this has been.  To say that life has been demanding, is a slight understatement.

This month, there has been little time for baking, photographing and writing, almost non-existent time for reading my favourite blogs, and absolutely no time for future baking planning.  This month I am frustrated in how few sweet treats I have shared.

Due to time constraints, I disappointingly was also unable to participate in my favourite baking group, Daring Bakers.  Interestingly, the only other time I was unable to participate, was the month of my wedding and honeymoon last September.  Yes indeed, things have been busy.

I did manage to experiment, however, with a few new recipes this month.  Some successful (French macarons, Nougat and Opéra cake), and some, not so successful (Pâte de fruits).  I conquered my fear of the French meringue version of macarons, managed success in producing a whisper light sponge in my chocolate-coffee explosion, and learned more about pectin than I bargained for.

The goal this month was to explore some new ideas, and find perhaps a handful of ideas for my own Petits fours plate.  It would be unreasonable not to find macarons on my plate.  But what else?  Fortunately, in my round up, I can delve into my archives for other examples to draw on.

So here is my Top 10 list of favourite Petits fours. What would get your vote?

{ Triple Chocolate Macarons } Chocolate is my ultimate weakness in the world.  Thus, in honour of the chocolate macaron, I create a triple chocolate macaron treat.  A chocolate macaron shell, filled with a bittersweet chocolate ganache, and a healthy dusting of cocoa to finish.  { Read more … }

{ Lemon Glazed Madeleines } Madeleines are my favourite sweet petit French treat – behind macarons, of course!  The recipe is courtesy of David Lebovitz.  I followed it to the letter and was easily able to produce some tasty little shelly treats.  The simplicity and elegance of these little cakes is just so charming.  { Read more … }

{ Chocolate Madeleines } If chocolate is my ultimate weakness, and Madeleines high up on my list of favourites, it would be scandalous not to include this variation.  The original recipe is for a Orange Blossom Honey Madeleine, with variations for lemon, pistachio and chocolate to cater for a variety of palates and tastes.  { Read more … }

{ Opéra Cake } The sublime partnership of chocolate and coffee on display.  An elegant almond sponge cake (Joconde sponge), is alternately layered with coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache, then finished with a generous layer of chocolate glaze.  { Read more … }

{ Chocolate Chunk Coconut Macaroons } These little hay-stacked cookies are a simple little biscuit perfect for a sweet indulgence any time of day.  They are simple and quick to make.  The perfect Petits fours to whip up at a moment’s notice.  { Read more … }

{ Pistachio & Cranberry Nougat } This chewy sweet is the ultimate in personalisation.  Choose your favourite nuts and fruit to create your own flavour combination.  Prepare ahead, and cut into mouth sized pieces for a simple, yet individual Petits fours selection.  { Read more … }

{ Mini Chocolate Éclairs } Mini choux pastry treats are a favourite Petits fours option.  A vanilla pastry cream filling and a simple ganache to finish keeps this simple, and quick to prepare. { Read more … }

{ Strawberry & Pistachio Tart } Mini tartlets are a popular Petits fours choice.  This tart will not disappoint.  The pâte sablée pastry has a delicate crisp and crumbly texture.  The sweet, buttery-ness of the pastry pairs well with the slightly sharp and tangy crème fraiche filling.  A hint of summer bursts through with a perfect finish of strawberries on top.  { Read more … }

{ Calisson d’Aix } A tiny diamond shaped sweet, made with ground almonds and candied fruits and finished with white royal icing.  The addition of orange flavoured liqueur to the almond candied fruit mixture, is simply festive. They are very simple to make, and a perfect make-ahead sweet.  { Read more … }

{ Tuiles } Traditionally, tuiles are thin, crisp almond cookies that are gently moulded over a rolling pin or arched form while they are still warm. Once set, their shape resembles the curved French roofing tiles for which they are named.  These little tuiles are the perfect accompaniment to sherbet, ice cream and fruit desserts.   { Read more … }

Only 21 sleeps until Christmas.  Where did the year go?

Before launching the next monthly theme on Mélanger, here is a wrap up of some of my favourite Christmas baking favourites.  Just a small handful of recipes that may provide some menu ideas for the holidays.

What will be on your holiday baking table this year?

Christmas cake :: For many, Christmas is not complete without a Christmas cake.  This quintessential cake is deliciously moist, and loaded with brandy soaked fruit.  There is a lovely buttery-ness to the crumb as well.  { Read more here … }

Peppermint Chocolate Cupcakes :: Peppermint and Christmas go hand in hand. These individual peppermint chocolate cupcakes are a sweet addition to your Christmas baking line up.  Light but with a minty bite, you will gobble up more than one.  { Read more here … }

Hi-hat Cupcakes  :: With a marshmallow topping, reminiscent of snow, these cupcakes are sure to be a hit with children at Christmas.  Crispy on the outside and soft, warm and gooey on the inside.  Just perfect.  { Read more here … }

 Star Topped Mince Pies :: They are perhaps the epitome of Christmas desserts.  If you like mince pies, you will enjoy the melt-in-my-mouth and lightness of these star topped treats.  (Last year, they disappeared in seconds!)  { Read more here … }

Calisson d’Aix :: A tiny diamond shaped sweet, made with ground almonds and candied fruits and finished with white royal icing.  The addition of orange flavoured liqueur to the almond candied fruit mixture, is simply festive.  { Read more here … }

Linzer cookies :: Savour the flavours of Christmas in one bite?  A light, buttery hazelnut pastry weaved with cinnamon, cloves, and lemon, then sandwiched together with raspberry jam?  This cookie includes all the essential ingredients for Christmas!  { Read more here … }

Rugelach :: Not a traditional Christmas favourite, but these more-ish Jewish sour cream croissant-like shaped pastries, overflowing with walnuts, currants, and chocolate chips, are a cheerful addition to any baking line up.  { Read more here … }

Pfeffernussen :: This spicy German treat features pepper (but no nuts!), and a range of spices such as cinnamon, all spice, nutmeg and cloves.  The light sugary coating of the cookie complements the peppery flavour deliciously.  { Read more here … }

 Chocolate Chunk Coconut Macaroons :: These little hay-stacked cookies are straightforward and quick to make.  The simple chocolate and coconut combination is popular.  They are the perfect bite-size for grazing during the festive day.  { Read more here … }

Baba au rhum :: Finished simply with a few additional drops of rum, this rich, yeast bread dessert, served with a brush of apricot preserve and a carefully topped glacéed cherry, is a perfect alternative to trifle for Christmas.  { Read more here … }

French month.  A showcase of a variety of desserts distinctive to a handful of regions around France.

It has been a joy to discover, create and enjoy some French regional food influenced by traditions, availability of ingredients and geography for a collection of areas in France.

Here is a wrap up of the French regional recipes I tackled during French month.  Plus, a few other French regional specialties favourites.  I hope you find something here that you like, too.

{ P.S. I have one more French related post this month.  The wedding favours, the French macarons + a few photographs of the big day…..coming soon.}

{ Far Breton aux Pruneaux }  This custard tarty cake, studded with rum soaked prunes, is a specialty of the Brittany region and a quintessential dessert from this picturesque area of France.  It is creamy, dense and smooth.  { Read more here … }

 { Gingerbread Brioche }  Brioche is a specialty of the Normandy region of France.  This gingerbread brioche is simply perfect with salted butter, or extra special served as French toast. Spicy, light, buttery, rich and soft all wrapped up together.   { Read more here … }

{ Baba au rhum } This dessert, introduced into France by way of Alsace-Lorraine, traditionally shaped like a Champagne cork, is a rich, yeast bread, baked in a cylindrical mould.  It is liberally (emphasis on liberally) soaked in a sweet rum syrup.  { Read more here … }

{ Lemon Glazed Madeleines} These fluffy, buttery shell shaped cakes are a tradition from Commercy and Liverdun, in the Lorraine region.  The simplicity and elegance of these little cakes is just so charming.  { Read more here … }

{ French Macarons}  The lauded delicate almond cookies, known as the French macaron, originated from Nancy in the Lorraine region.  More recently popularised by boutique Parisian patisseries, they come in an array of flavours and fillings to enjoy any time.  { Read more here … }

{ Tarte aux abricots} The sweeping landscapes of Provence, brimming with majestic fields and fruit and nut orchards are the source of this sun-drenched tarte aux abricots.  Moist and tart, the perfect summer afternoon treat.  { Read more here … }

{ Calisson d’Aix}  Calisson d’Aix is a speciality of Aix-en-Provence.  A tiny diamond shaped sweet, made with ground almonds and candied fruits and finished with white royal icing.  They are traditionally served with coffee after dessert.  { Read more here … }

{ Cannelés Bordelais}   A regional specialty of Bordeaux that is the Cannelé.  Fresh out of the oven, these fragrant rum and vanilla infused delicacies boast a crunchy and golden crust that gives way to a dense, yet creamy, custardy centre.  { Read more here … }

{ Gâteau aux noix} Majestic groves of walnut trees are common landscapes that grace the valleys of the Périgord region, in the southwest corner of France.  Walnuts feature strongly in cakes and desserts from this area, and this light, nutty Gâteau is one such example.  { Read more here … }

{ Tarte Tatin }  The simplicity of apples, caramel and puff pastry combine to create one of the most recognised desserts around.  Make your own puff pastry or use an all-butter variety to ensure lip smacking flakiness.  { Read more here … }

Before I was a resident of Boston, I visited this historically-rich city a handful of times.  One obligatory stop for any visitor in Boston is the North End. Here, a tiny patch of Italy is alive and booming.

Wander the narrow roads surrounding Hanover Street, and you can find every Italian delicacy your heart desires. Speciality delicatessen products. Espresso. Gelato. Italian pastries. Endless restaurants and cafes. Pasta, pizza and meals of every kind. The air is cloaked in the aroma of garlic.  Men speaking rapid Italian, and quintessentially animated making mild hand gestures, is a common site.

People watching in the North End proves to be entertaining – and potentially scandalous – if you have a vivid imagination (and have watched many an episode of the Sopranos as a frame of reference!).  In your travels, you may even glance a Maserati, a Ferrari – or two.  The distinctive Boston architecture is often the only cue you are not in Italy.

Two destinations in the North End guaranteed a loyal following is Mike’s Pastry and Modern Pastry.  It was here I savoured my first cannoli.  First and certainly not my last.  Boxed in distinctive packaging, you leave with a little pastry heaven, a little dolci, and a guaranteed smile on your face.

Fond memories of the North End came flooding back with this month’s Daring Bakers challenge.  Thank you, Lisa!

The November 2009 Daring Bakers Challenge was chosen and hosted by Lisa Michele of Parsley, Sage, Desserts and Line Drives.  She chose the Italian Pastry, Cannolo (Cannoli is plural), using the cookbooks Lidia’s Italian-American Kitchen by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and The Sopranos Family Cookbook by Allen Rucker; recipes by Michelle Scicolone, as ingredient/direction guides. She added her own modifications/changes, so the recipe is not 100% verbatim from either book.

{ Lidisano’s Cannoli }

Makes 22-24 4-inch cannoli

Cannoli shells

* Ingredients *
2 cups (250 grams/16 ounces) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons(28 grams/1 ounce) sugar
1 teaspoon (5 grams/0.06 ounces) unsweetened baking cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon (1.15 grams/0.04 ounces) ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon (approx. 3 grams/0.11 ounces) salt
3 tablespoons (42 grams/1.5 ounces) vegetable or olive oil
1 teaspoon (5 grams/0.18 ounces) white wine vinegar
Approximately 1/2 cup (approx. 59 grams/approx. 4 fluid ounces/approx. 125 ml) sweet Marsala or any white or red wine you have on hand
1 large egg, separated (you will need the egg white but not the yolk)
Vegetable or any neutral oil for frying – about 2 quarts (8 cups/approx. 2 litres)
1/2 cup (approx. 62 grams/2 ounces) toasted, chopped pistachio nuts, mini chocolate chips/grated chocolate and/or candied or plain zests, fruits etc.. for garnish
Confectioners’ sugar

* Directions *
1. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer or food processor, combine the flour, sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, and salt. Stir in the oil, vinegar, and enough of the wine to make a soft dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and well blended, about 2 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest in the fridge from 2 hours to overnight.
2 Cut the dough into two pieces. Keep the remaining dough covered while you work. Lightly flour a large cutting or pastry board and roll the dough until super thin, about 1/16 to 1/8” thick (An area of about 13 inches by 18 inches should give you that). Cut out 3 to 5-inch circles (3-inch – small/medium; 4-inch – medium/large; 5-inch;- large. Your choice). Roll the cut out circle into an oval, rolling it larger and thinner if it’s shrunk a little.
3. Oil the outside of the cannoli tubes (You only have to do this once, as the oil from the deep fry will keep them well, uhh, oiled..lol). Roll a dough oval from the long side (If square, position like a diamond, and place tube/form on the corner closest to you, then roll) around each tube/form and dab a little egg white on the dough where the edges overlap. (Avoid getting egg white on the tube, or the pastry will stick to it.) Press well to seal. Set aside to let the egg white seal dry a little.
4. In a deep heavy saucepan, pour enough oil to reach a depth of 3 inches, or if using an electric deep-fryer, follow the manufacturer’s directions. Heat the oil to 375°F (190 °C) on a deep fry thermometer, or until a small piece of the dough or bread cube placed in the oil sizzles and browns in 1 minute. Have ready a tray or sheet pan lined with paper towels or paper bags.
5. Carefully lower a few of the cannoli tubes into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pan. Fry the shells until golden, about 2 minutes, turning them so that they brown evenly.
6. Lift a cannoli tube with a wire skimmer or large slotted spoon, out of the oil. Using tongs, grasp the cannoli tube at one end. Very carefully remove the cannoli tube with the open sides straight up and down so that the oil flows back into the pan. Place the tube on paper towels or bags to drain. Repeat with the remaining tubes. While they are still hot, grasp the tubes with a potholder and pull the cannoli shells off the tubes with a pair of tongs, or with your hand protected by an oven mitt or towel. Let the shells cool completely on the paper towels. Place shells on cooling rack until ready to fill.
7. Repeat making and frying the shells with the remaining dough. If you are reusing the cannoli tubes, let them cool before wrapping them in the dough.

Cannoli filling

* Ingredients *
2 lbs (approx. 3.5 cups/approx. 1 kg/32 ounces) ricotta cheese, drained
1 2/3 cups cup (160 grams/6 ounces) confectioner’s sugar, (more or less, depending on how sweet you want it), sifted
1/2 teaspoon (1.15 grams/0.04 ounces) ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon (4 grams/0.15 ounces) pure vanilla extract or the beans from one vanilla bean
3 tablespoons (approx. 28 grams/approx. 1 ounce) finely chopped good quality chocolate of your choice
2 tablespoons (12 grams/0.42 ounces) of finely chopped, candied orange peel, or the grated zest of one small to medium orange
3 tablespoons (23 grams/0.81 ounce) toasted, finely chopped pistachios

* Directions *
1. Line a strainer with cheesecloth. Place the ricotta in the strainer over a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap and a towel. Weight it down with a heavy can, and let the ricotta drain in the refrigerator for several hours to overnight.
2. In a bowl with electric mixer, beat ricotta until smooth and creamy. Beat in confectioner’s sugar, cinnamon, vanilla and blend until smooth. Transfer to another bowl and stir in chocolate, zest and nuts. Chill until firm.(The filling can be made up to 24 hours prior to filling the shells. Just cover and keep refrigerated).

Assembly

1. When ready to serve fill a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain or star tip, or a ziplock bag, with the ricotta cream. If using a ziplock bag, cut about 1/2 inch off one corner. Insert the tip in the cannoli shell and squeeze gently until the shell is half filled. Turn the shell and fill the other side. You can also use a teaspoon to do this, although it’s messier and will take longer.
2. Press or dip cannoli in chopped pistachios, grated chocolate/mini chocolate chips, candied fruit or zest into the cream at each end. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and/or drizzles of melted chocolate if desired.

{ Tips and notes }
- Dough must be stiff and well kneaded
- Rolling the dough to paper thinness, using either a rolling pin or pasta machine, is very important. If the dough is not rolled thin enough, it will not blister, and good cannoli should have a blistered surface.
- Initially, this dough is VERY stubborn, but keep rolling, it eventually gives in. Before cutting the shapes, let the dough rest a bit, covered, as it tends to spring back into a smaller shapes once cut. Then again, you can also roll circles larger after they’re cut, and/or into ovals, which gives you more space for filling.
- Your basic set of round cutters usually doesn’t contain a 5-inch cutter. Try a plastic container top, bowl etc, or just roll each circle to 5 inches. There will always be something in your kitchen that’s round and 5-inches if you want large cannoli.
- Oil should be at least 3 inches deep and hot – 360°F-375°F, or you’ll end up with greasy shells. I prefer 350°F – 360°F because I felt the shells darkened too quickly at 375°F.
- If using the cannoli forms, when you drop the dough on the form into the oil, they tend to sink to the bottom, resulting in one side darkening more. Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to gently lift and roll them while frying.
- DO NOT crowd the pan. Cannoli should be fried 2-4 at a time, depending on the width of your saucepan or deep fryer. Turn them once, and lift them out gently with a slotted spoon/wire skimmer and tongs. Just use a wire strainer or slotted spoon for flat cannoli shapes.
- When the cannoli turns light brown – uniform in color, watch it closely or remove it. If it’s already a deep brown when you remove it, you might end up with a really dark or slightly burnt shell.
- Depending on how much scrap you have left after cutting out all of your cannoli shapes, you can either fry them up and sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar for a crispy treat, or let the scraps rest under plastic wrap and a towel, then re-roll and cut more cannoli shapes.
- Push forms out of cannoli very gently, being careful not to break the shells as they are very delicate. DO NOT let the cannoli cool on the form, or you may never get it off without it breaking. Try to take it off while still hot. Hold it with a cloth in the center, and push the form out with a butter knife or the back of a spoon.
- When adding the confectioner’s sugar to the filling..TASTE. You may like it sweeter than what the recipe calls for, or less sweet, so add in increments.
- Fill cannoli right before serving! If you fill them an hour or so prior, you’ll end up with soggy cannoli shells.
- If you want to prepare the shells ahead of time, store them in an airtight container, then re-crisp in a 350°F (176 °C) oven for a few minutes, before filling.